Classic cars parked on a light flake floor in a showroom garage.

Before we arrive

Getting the
space ready.

Nothing complicated. But the jobs that run late almost always run late for the same handful of reasons, and every one of them is avoidable.

3 min readUpdated 2026-08-29

You don’t need to do anything clever. You mostly need the floor genuinely empty, and “genuinely” is doing some work in that sentence.

The week before

  • Empty means empty. Everything touching the slab has to go: cars, bikes, bins, the second fridge, the gym rack, the boxes in the corner. If it’s on the floor, it’s in the way.
  • Wall-mounted things can usually stay as long as they don’t come down to the ground. Cabinets on legs are floor items. Cabinets hung off the wall are not.
  • Work out where the car goes. The driveway is normally fine, but check you’re not blocking anything you’ll need, and remember you won’t be parking inside for longer than the install day.
  • Tell us about the floor’s history. Any coating, sealer, paint or tile adhesive that’s ever been on it, and any spot that’s been soaked in oil for years. Surprises cost time.

The day before

  • Clear a path. Allow access for the planned grinding or shot-blasting equipment, dust collection and coating materials.
  • Power. Confirm the equipment’s electrical requirements with us in advance; do not assume an ordinary garage outlet can power every machine.
  • Water access if we’ve mentioned it — usually an outside tap is plenty.
  • Sweep it if you like. Not required. We’re about to make far more mess than you can.
A crew pulling a coating across bare concrete.
Once we start, the floor has to stay clear until it’s cured. That’s the part worth planning around.

On the day

It’s loud. Diamond grinding and shot blasting make noise during preparation. If you work from home, plan around it. If you have a baby sleeping, definitely plan around it.

Plan for dust control. Grinding uses suitable dust extraction; shot blasting uses shot recovery and dust collection. Containment and cleanup are part of the plan, but this is not a dust-free promise. Follow the agreed access restrictions and protect adjoining belongings.

There’s a smell. Less than the old solvent products, but noticeable while the coating goes down and cures. Ventilation helps and it fades.

Pets and kids need to be elsewhere. Wet coating, machinery, trailing leads and open buckets. Not a space to wander into.

After we leave

You’ll get two times: when you can walk on it, and when you can drive on it. They are not the same and the gap between them is not a suggestion. Putting a car on a floor that hasn’t finished curing is one of the few ways to ruin a good install on day one.

When it is ready, treat it like a floor rather than a driveway: sweep it, mop it with something neutral, and put a mat under anything that drips. Wipe spills reasonably promptly — brake fluid and battery acid are the two worth actually hurrying for.

Bare concrete slab cleared and ready for preparation.
Empty means empty. Everything touching the slab has to be out before we start — that is the one thing that reliably delays a job.

The five-minute version

  1. Floor completely empty the night before.
  2. Somewhere else to park.
  3. Power available and a clear path in.
  4. Pets and kids out of the way for the day.
  5. Don’t drive on it until we say so.
FAQ

Still wondering

Do I need to be home all day?
No. We need access and a clear floor. Plenty of clients leave a garage door code and get on with their day — though it’s worth being around at the start so we can walk the floor together and agree what we’re looking at.
What if it rains?
Temperature and humidity both matter, so genuinely bad weather can move a date. We’d rather reschedule than install outside the material’s window and hand you a floor that cures wrong.
Can I keep the fridge running in the garage?
Not during the install — it’s on the floor, so it has to move. Plan for it to be unplugged for the day, or find it a temporary home.
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